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- From: tittle@netcom.com (Cindy Tittle Moore)
- Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs,rec.answers,news.answers
- Subject: rec.pets.dogs: Assorted Topics [Part II] FAQ
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- Date: 16 Jun 1993 00:01:24 -0400
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- Archive-name: dogs-faq/misc/part2
- Last-modified: 1 January 1993
-
- This is one of the FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) Lists for
- rec.pets.dogs. It is posted on a monthly basis: updates, additions,
- and corrections (including attributions) are always welcome: send
- email to one of the addresses at the end of this article.
-
- The multiple parts are all archived at rtfm.mit.edu (18.70.0.226) in
- the directory /pub/usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq. The files are:
- introduction, getting-a-dog, new-puppy, new-dog, health-care,
- breeding, medical-info, training, behavior, working, service,
- AKC-titles, misc/part1, misc/part2, rescue/part1, rescue/part2,
- publications and resources.
-
- To obtain the files, first try ftp to rtfm.edu and look under
- that directory. If ftp does not work from your site, then try
- the mail server: send email to mail-server@rtfm.mit.edu with
-
- send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/introduction
- send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/getting-a-dog
- send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/new-puppy
- send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/new-dog
- send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/health-care
- send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/breeding
- send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/medical-info
- send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/training
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- send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/publications
- send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/resources
-
- in the body of the message (leave the subject line empty). If you
- don't want all of them, include only the lines of the ones you want.
- You do have to repeat the path information for each file.
-
-
-
- ASSORTED TOPICS (Part II).
-
- A. Owner Allergies.
- B. Pet Doors.
- C. Pet Insurance.
- D. Pet Sitting and Kennel Services.
- E. Record Keeping.
- F. Removing Odors and Stains.
- G. Separation Anxiety.
- H. Travel and International Travel.
- I. Vicious Dogs.
- J. Wolves and Wolf Hybrids.
-
- (Part II)
- A. Owner Allergies.
-
- You can go to an allergy specialist and get shots to help you with
- specific allergies. This can be expensive, but worth it, especially
- if you have other allergies as well. They'll test you for the things
- you're allergic to, and then give you periodic shots to help you
- develop an appropriate immunity to them (you should be aware that the
- shots do not always work). Be sure to find an allergy specialist
- familiar with dog allergies: there are far too many doctors out there
- that will simply say "Get rid of your pets." Other approaches may be
- used as well: cortisone nasal sprays, eye drops, etc. Air filters
- often help, as well as reducing the amount of wall-to-wall carpeting,
- if possible. Find someone who will work with your particular problem.
-
- Different breeds may work for different people who have allergy
- problems. It depends on exactly what it is about dogs that causes the
- problem. Some people are allergic to the hair, but others are
- allergic to the dander. Still others are not specifically allergic to
- dogs, but are allergic to things like dust and the dogs provide an
- *additional* irritant that is sufficent when combined with other
- allergens to provoke a reaction. In yet other cases, people are
- allergic to a dog *licking* them. You must find out which is true for
- your case.
-
- Some people do well with Basenjis and Miniature Pincers and other dogs
- with little or no coat. Others do well with poodles and schnauzers
- and airedales who have a different type of coat. A lot of people do
- well with Shih Tzus and Lhasa Apsos who, while very hairy, are
- supposed to have hair much more like human hair.
-
- This is VERY important: every dog lover with allergy problems needs to
- spend some time with different breeds to find the one that doesn't
- aggravate the problem.
-
- In many cases, bathing the dog frequently, cleaning the bedding,
- vacumming and closing off your bedroom will help alleviate allergy
- problems. There is also a spray available that you put on the dog
- that is supposed to reduce the amount of allergens they shed called
- Allerpet/D Most pet stores carry the stuff, and the bottle has an 800
- number you can call for more information.
-
-
- B. Pet Doors.
-
- Some points:
-
- * Get one that at least has magnetic strips to hold the door shut.
- In colder climates, you might want to consider a "double door",
- i.e, the outer door must close before the inner one opens. This
- would cut down on the drafts.
-
- * Size is deceptive. Dogs don't really need as much space as you
- might think to get in and out.
-
- * Installation is usually very easy. Some models fit into patio
- doors and are removable. Make sure the one you get is lockable or
- blockable. If the door is hollow-core, it is trickier, because
- then you have to insert a frame in the door for the pet door to
- attach to.
-
- * The wall between your garage and house is considered a 'fire wall'
- and you're not supposed to cut any holes in it. In particular, it
- could make fire insurance claims tricky. And if you sell the
- house, you will have to fix the hole first.
-
- * Install the door in such a place as to make it impossible for
- someone to push something through it to open a door or window,
- even if they can't crawl through themselves. Ideally, you should
- have some way of locking or disabling the door for times when you
- are gone, say on vacation.
-
- Johnson pet doors are frequently recommended. RC Steele stocks them.
- Another source is America's Pet Door Store (1-800-826-2871).
-
- There exist electronic pet doors that are activated by a special
- collar. Most of these are for cats, but there are models for dogs up
- to 110lbs. These help keep unwanted animals from entering your house.
- These are, of course, somewhat expensive.
-
- Some dogs need coaxing to use the door. Prop the door open and offer
- a treat from the other side. Don't try and push your dog through.
-
-
- C. Pet Insurance.
-
- Pet insurance plans are typically accident policies, although some
- also cover routine medical expenses such as worming and shots (or even
- grooming) -- the latter are generally a better deal.
-
- Between the deductibles and allowances, you may not get very much back
- on an actual claim. In several years of rec.pets.dogs, no reader has
- come back with a favorable story on claim processing.
-
-
- D. Pet Sitting and Kennel Services.
-
- 1. Pet Sitting
-
- In some cases, you can find friends or neighbors willing to take care
- of your pets while you are gone. If you are using a professional
- service as opposed to a friend or relative, try to find one that's not
- just one person doing it but is a business that has several people
- working for them. When it's a business with people working for them
- the owners of the business are more likely to expect their people to
- do a good job and be responsive to people complaining about poor
- service. Watch out for the business changing hands.
-
- Check with the National Association of Pet Sitters. Members must sign
- a code of ethics and can be removed if there are complaints. They can
- give you a list of pet sitters in your area. Their address is 632
- Holly Ave, Winston Salem, NC 27101 and phone (919) 723-PETS. Their
- brochure includes their code of ethics, and includes a list of what to
- look for in a reputable pet sitter; included in list below.
-
- Ask the company if they're bonded or insured. See if they'll send
- someone more than once a day. Ask for references from previous and
- current customers. Some will bring the paper and mail in and help
- make the place look "occupied;" that's a plus.
-
- Check the potential sitter for the following:
-
- 1. Does the pet sitter furnish written literature describing services
- and stating fees?
- 2. Does the pet sitter visit the home beforehand to meet with the
- client and pet to obtain detailed information?
- 3. Does the sitter arrive on time?
- 4. Does the sitter get along with your pet? Does the sitter exhibit
- confidence and ease with your pets?
- 5. Is the pet sitter courteous, interested, and well informed?
- 6. Does the sitter have written references?
- 7. Is the sitter willing to give you names and numbers of former
- clients for references?
- 8. Does the pet sitter have a service contract which spells out
- services the pet sitter will provide and fees for doing so?
- 9. Are the company and/or sitter in good standing with the Better
- Business Bureau?
- 10. Does the pet sitter have regular office hours or return customer
- inquiries promptly?
- 11. Is the sitter recommended by someone you trust - either your vet,
- trainer, dog show buddies, etc?
- 12. Does the pet sitter have a veterinarian on call for emergency
- services?
- 13. What contingency plan for pet care does the pet sitter have in the
- event of inclement weather or personal illness?
- 14. Does the company have a training program for their sitters?
- 15. How does the pet-sitting service recruit and screen applicants?
- Are there any prerequisites for employment?
- 16. Does the pet sitter or pet-sitting service telephone to determine
- if the client has returned home as scheduled or require that the
- client notify the company or pet sitter of their arrival home?
- 17. Does the pet sitter or company provide a rating form for customer
- feedback and evaluation of pet-sitting services?
- 18. Does the pet-sitting service have an established system for
- handling customer complaints?
- 19. When does the sitter get paid? Before or after you come back?
- A deposit up front and the rest later?
-
- Try to find word of mouth recommendations. You might try calling
- several vets in your area to see if they have any recommendations.
- Check with the local SPCA and with Better Business Bureau for any
- specific complaints lodged with a particular business.
-
- 2. Kennels
-
- Look around for a good one. Experiences can be good or awful
- depending on the kennel.
-
- One resource: The American Boarding Kennel Association (ABKA) is based
- in Colorado Springs. You can use this organization to help you choose
- a kennel. If you write to them (or call them), they will send you a
- small packet of information. One part is a booklet on how to choose a
- kennel, and another part is a list of all ABKA accredited kennels
- around the country.
-
- An ABKA kennel is supposed to meet a minimum set of criterion that is
- spelled out in their literature. The things they suggest you look for
- and questions to ask involve a lot of common sense stuff, but there
- are good suggestions you might not think of.
-
- 4575 Galley Rd., Suite 400A
- Colorado Springs, CO 80915
- 719-591-1113
-
-
- E. Record Keeping.
-
- 1. Breeders
-
- You should not rely on AKC to keep all your records straight.
- Breeders MUST keep official records on their dogs. There are numerous
- fines listed in the back of the _Gazette_ for failure to maintain
- proper records. If you don't have your own record book, you should
- start one. If you are cited, you may have to start all over again
- with new dogs. That means that all the dogs you breed lose their AKC
- registrations. The AKC screws up a lot of things. That's why it is
- so important that breeders keep good files for their own breed club's
- use.
-
- Breeders need to keep records in a book about their breeding dogs.
- This includes the dog's registered name, number, sex, color, markings,
- date of birth, and OFA, CERF etc. Every time that dog is bred (either
- male or female) the date, the name of the other dog, the number of the
- other dog, and the number of the owner of the other dog goes into it.
- When the puppies are born, the number of puppies, sexes, colors,
- markings, date of birth and litter number is added. The breeder's
- name(s) is also included. On the litter registration form, the
- information is reprinted to get the individual registration forms.
-
- When the puppies are placed in a home, the new owner's name, address
- and phone number go into the proper places. (You can order these
- books from the AKC -- they are called "Dog Ownership and Breeding
- Record" books and they cost about $5 -- but they have enough pages for
- many dogs.)
-
- 2. Titles
-
- For titles and points, keep a small *bound* notebook (so that the
- question never comes up whether pages have been added or removed) to
- record the judge's name, the number of dogs in the classes, the number
- of points, the date, the show, and the club sponsoring the show.
- Record obedience trials the same way. You may want to have a folder
- in which to keep all ribbons and copies of certificates and pedigrees
- along with a few pictures of the dog. You just need to have a record
- of your own -- like your check book -- to make sure someone doesn't
- goof up. Two records are better than one!
-
- 3. Working dogs
-
- Dogs that work: e.g., Search and Rescue dogs, Police dogs, Disaster
- dogs, any that work in potentially liable situations or do work that
- may be challenged in court should have an ongoing record of their
- training and of actual cases. Note date and time, individuals
- involved in the training, the purpose of the training, how the
- training session was set up, how the dog did, and where it needs to
- improve. For an actual case, note all the specifics involved: who you
- talked to, where you got the scent article or other applicable
- information from, who was found/rescued/attacked, etc. If you can, go
- back and take pictures of the trail followed or other useful sites.
- Keep training and actual case records separate.
-
- If, for example, an SAR dog's identification of a felon comes into
- question, that record may prove the difference as to whether the
- evidence is ruled admissible or not. In contrast to the above for
- titles, keep training and case records in a loose-leaf binding, so
- that only the record pertinent to the case need be forwarded to the
- lawyers.
-
- 4. Your personal enjoyment
-
- Anyone training a dog may find it useful and interesting to keep a log
- of their dog's progress in training. In particular, it might help you
- uncover patterns unique to your dog, or suggest other ways to approach
- training.
-
-
- F. Removing Odors and Stains.
-
- 1. Urine
-
- For fresh urine: clean the spot with any good carpet shampoo (Spot
- Shot is one). Then soak it with plain old club soda, leave it for
- about ten minutes and blot it up.
-
- If the urine has soaked the pad and the floor below that, it will be
- difficult to remove the odor regardless of what you use.
-
- To find spots if you're not sure where they are, get a UV lamp that
- has the filter built in (to eliminate any remnant visible light).
- Urine fluoresces in "black light." You can get them at hardware
- stores. There are also UV lamps in hobby stores and places that cater
- to spelunkers and rockhounds, but they're more expensive. The UV
- source is safe as long as you use the longwave lamp and not the
- shortwave lamp used for tanning.
-
- 1. Enzymatic products
-
- Products that remove odors: Nature's Miracle (carpet, has 800 number);
- Simple Solution (carpet and other items); Outright! (carpet); Resolve
- (carpet, perhaps other items); Odor Mute (originally for deskunking
- dogs, has other applications, leaves white residue, works on
- concrete). Odor Abolish, by Endosome Biologicals, may also be useful.
- These products use enzymes to break down the odor causing compounds in
- urine and feces, and are quite effective.
-
- When using enzymatic products, it is important to use freshly diluted
- enzymes, let it soak in as deeply as the urine has penetrated, and
- *keep the area warm and wet for 24 hours*. Chemical reactions,
- including enzymatic reactions, go faster at higher temperatures.
- Unfortunately, most enzymatic reactions don't do well much over 102F
- (38-39C)-- so not TOO hot. Try covering the area with towels soaked
- in plain water after applying the enzyme, then a shower curtain or
- other plastic over that to make sure the area stays moist.
-
- The enzymes in laundry products are the same as those in the expensive
- odor-killing products, but they cost less than 1/3 as much. They work
- just as well. Biz is one product. You'll find it in your grocery
- laundry section with the pre-soak laundry stuff. Remember, you have
- to SOAK the area and then cover it to keep it from drying out. The
- smelly area must be WET with the enzyme for 24 hours or more.
-
- 2. Launderable items
-
- On launderable items: put in the washing machine with a cup of vinegar
- and no detergent, then wash again as usual.
-
- 3. Concrete
-
- If you have concrete (eg, in the basement) into which urine has been
- soaked, this can be difficult to remove, as unsealed concrete is very
- porous. You will have to neutralize the urine and then seal the
- concrete properly. A specialty cleaning service is probably the best
- way to properly neutralize the urine in the concrete. Vinegars and
- other cleaners may help, but only temporarily. Odor Mute is reputed
- to work on concrete. Improving the ventilation may also help. In
- extreme cases, pouring another 1/4-1/2 inch layer of concrete over the
- original concrete will solve the problem.
-
- 4. Hardwood floors
-
- Hardwood floors that have been stained with urine can be difficult to
- clean. First treat with an enzyme-based product such as Nature's
- Miracle to remove the odor. You can find wood bleaches and stains at
- your hardware store: you may want to consult with one of the employees
- on what is available. You will need to remove any varnish or
- polyurethane from the area, sand it down a bit, bleach and/or stain
- it, and then apply the protective coat. There are also professional
- companies you can consult. In severely stained cases, you may have to
- replace the wood.
-
- 5. Yard
-
- For your yard, gypsum is supposed to help lawns cope with urine.
- This is found in Jerry Baker's _Plants are Still Like People_.
-
- 2. Skunks
-
- The important thing is to get the skunk oil off a quickly as possible
- and don't let the dog spread the oil around. Also, the skunk smell
- seems to be easier to get rid of the sooner the dog is washed.
-
- To get rid of the smell - try vinegar diluted with water. Douches
- work (they contain vinegar), but the perfumes may irritate some dogs'
- skin. Massengill in particular is often highly recommended. Soap the
- skunked areas, then apply the vinegar - let it sit a little while, and
- then soap again. Don't get the vinegar in the dog's eyes. Try also:
- diluted lemon juice and a dishwashing detergent (Dawn is generally
- recommended) to cut the grease.
-
- There is a product available called SKUNK OFF.
-
- If your dog's been thoroughly sprayed, don't expect to get all the
- smell out with a bath but what smell is left will go away faster.
-
- 3. Saliva
-
- The watery, tasteless liquid mixture of salivary and oral mucous gland
- secretions that lubricates chewed food, moistens oral walls, and
- contains enzymes that function in the predigestion of starches.
-
- The enzymes are the potent operatives here that leave semi-permanent
- slime trails on clothes, ceilings, walls, and table tops, depending on
- your breed. Removal of high-powered slobber, especially from
- polyesters and blends, can be a problem. For washable fabrics, the
- cheapest pre-wash treatment is Accent meat tenderizer liberally
- sprinkled on the the slobber spots (wet the spots or whole garment
- before applying the Accent). Let it soak for a few minutes, then wash
- as usual with laundry detergent.
-
-
- G. Separation Anxiety.
-
- Some dogs may cry and whine when you leave. Most get over it in time.
- You can minimize it by not making a big deal of leaving; say good-bye,
- give him a treat, and walk out. You can probably condition your dog
- to accept it better by leaving for short errands and coming back soon,
- possibly over the weekend when you don't have to work.
-
- Go ahead and crate the dog while you're gone (provided it's been
- crate-trained, of course). A crate can help your dog feel more secure
- in its own personal space where it can't get into trouble.
-
-
- H. Travel and International Travel.
-
- You can often take your dog with you when you travel. There are some
- helpful books out there that list which hotels, motels, etc. accept
- dogs. These include
-
- _Touring with Towser_, Quaker foods, publisher. Editions put out
- every other year. Write to 585 Hawthorne Court, Galesburg IL 61401
- with a check or money order for $3 made out to Quaker Professional
- Services. 64 page directory.
-
- _Pets Allowed_. A directory of places to stay nation (USA) wide. $10
- from Modern Systems Computing, 9 Greenmeadow Dr. #FD, N. Billerica, MA
- 01862-1921.
-
- _Take Your Pet USA: A Guide of Accommodations for Pets and Their
- Owners_. Artco Publishing, 1990, 446 pages, ISBN 0-9626885-0-9,
- $9.95. It lists the address, phone number, any pet restrictions, if
- there's an exercise area for pets, if pet can be left unattended in
- room, local attractions, lodging rates and a few local vet offices.
-
-
- By the way: BE SURE TO CLEAN UP AFTER YOUR DOG! Especially when
- travelling -- many hotels begin to refuse dogs after continually
- finding dog feces all over their lawns, etc afterwards. Get a
- pooper-scooper or a plain plastic bag and clean up after your pooch!
- Those following you afterwards will thank you.
-
- 1. Car
-
- Most dogs love travelling in the car. Some are fearful, others are
- prone to carsickness. Any dog travelling in a car should be
- restrained in some manner, both for its safety and yours. Dogs can
- travel in carriers, probably the best option. There are available
- barriers which can keep your dog in the back seat (this works
- especially well with station wagon type of cars). There are
- restraining leashes available. Riding in the back of a truck is just
- asking for trouble, as the dog will almost always be killed if it is
- thrown from the truck in even a minor accident. There are also
- restraining leashes for dogs in open pick-up truck beds. Some states
- have laws against dogs riding in the back of a pick-up.
-
- 1.1. Car sickness, fear
-
- Try just sitting in the back seat and just talking and playing with
- your dog, assure it over a few of these sitting-in sessions that there
- is nothing to be afraid of. Then do a couple of slow trips, just
- around the block, no more. Then to the local park or beach, so your
- dog starts to get the idea that car trips lead to "fun" places too.
- Finally, try slowing down some more for those corners since side to
- side movements in a car are the most common cause of motion sickness.
- Opening a window or turning on the car fan may help some dogs.
-
- Do *not* sympathize with the dog or try to soothe it. While
- car-sickness isn't quite the same as being afraid of riding in the
- car, it could conceivably be brought on by such a fear. If that is
- the case, doing *anything* that the pup can possibly interpret as
- praise can be counterproductive. It will teach it that this fear is
- the desired behavior. If the car sickness if brought on by such fear
- and it is, inadavertantly, taught that the fear is desired behavior,
- the car sickness will continue.
-
- 2. Plane
-
- The May/June, 1990 issue of Golden Retriever News (published by the
- Golden Retriever Club of America) had an article on airline
- transportation of dogs. Many of the comments should be common sense
- -- such as having the proper crates and bedding, choosing non-stop
- flights where possible, allowing plenty of check-in time, etc. The
- article goes on to say that the ratings are based on serious problems
- reported between July 1988 and July 1989, and that air travel is
- generally safe for animals, with a mortality rate of less than one
- tenth of one percent.
-
- One pet is allowed in each cabin. Thus, if there is one First Class,
- one Business class and one Tourist class cabin, three pets are
- allowed. This can be modified if the pets are house mates - two
- people who are traveling with their two pets, then the pets can be in
- the same cabin. A cabin is a section that can be closed off from view
- from the other sections either with a door or a curtain.
-
- As for specific airlines: USAir has one of the best reputations in
- shipping animals. They routinely check up on the animals, and ask the
- owners to call a specific number after each landing the plane makes to
- contact an individual who can check on the animals. Continental has
- the worst reputation, having had several dogs die in their planes. A
- particularly horrible incident in the summer of 1991 involved five
- samoyeds, three of whom died of heat prostration despite the pleas of
- the passengers and owners, who could hear the dogs barking in the
- cargo area. Other airlines have varying reputations. In general a
- direct flight is safest.
-
- There is a pamphlet from Northwest Airlines called "Priority Pet." It
- explains Northwest's methods of pet transport --- it was encouraging
- to see an airline show explicit concern for this issue. Northwest
- asks owners to attach two bowls and a supply of food to the outside of
- the kennel in order that the animal may be fed and watered (presumably
- by Northwest personnel). The caveats and conditions are enlightening
- to read.
-
- Other references: The _Conde' Nast Traveler_ (June 1992) has an
- article on pets and planes, including information on which carriers
- have been fined for violations of animal transportation laws.
-
- 3. International Travel.
-
- 1. Paperwork
-
- Most states/provinces/regions require a health certificate and proof
- of rabies vaccination for pets crossing boundary lines. Most airlines
- will require this regardless of where you go within the country. Any
- dog that is travelling somewhere else should have a copy of its
- medical history, especially its vaccinations with it.
-
- 2. Quarantines
-
- Islands almost always have quarantines: Britain has a 6 month
- quarantine for all pets. Hawaii has a 4 month quarantine, except for
- pets from Britain and a few other rabies-free countries [Australia?].
-
- In North America: Canada has a 4 month quarantine, except
- from the US, where rabies vaccination documentation is sufficient.
-
- In South America: No quarantines, but the animal must be up-to-date on
- vaccinations.
-
- Europe: Sweden has a four month quarantine; Finland has a quarantine
- of 3 [?] months. Most European countries do not have a quarantine or
- only require proof of vaccinations.
-
- Australia: Dogs from New Zealand may freely enter Australia (but not
- from other pacific islands). Dogs from Ireland or Britain may enter
- after a 2 month quarantine. All other animals must do six months of
- quarantine in Hawaii or UK, a month out, and then 2 months in
- Australia.
-
- 4. Shipping
-
- You may find yourself shipping a dog, for various reasons. Most
- people simply ship them as cargo on an airline. This works best when
- the flight is a non-stop, and neither the start- or end-point is at
- risk of too high or too low temperatures. There is at least one
- company that ships dogs. This is
-
- Pet Transfer
- (world wide door to door pet moving service)
- 714-660-9390 (USA)
- [There may be an 800 , but I do not have it.]
-
-
- I. Vicious Dogs.
-
- It is an interesting fact about American pit bulls that up until World
- War II Pit Bulls were looked upon with favor and patriotism. There is
- World War I propaganda portraying the Pit Bull as manifesting American
- Virtues. In a poster with other dogs representing their country of
- origin, the pit bull in a bunting collar was subscribed "Independent,
- but not afraid of any of them..." In addition, at about the same
- time, Collies were considered unreliable dogs that would attack people
- without provocation. Thus, it is easy to see that hysteria about a
- particular breed is just that, hysteria.
-
- In many cases the reasons given for the "viciousness" of some breed
- are racist or classist and ludicrous to those who know dogs and follow
- the reports. The German Shepherd was vicious because of it's overly
- inbred purity (read German Uber-mench theory). In Germany the Doberman
- was vicious because it was *impure* (read tainted with non-Aryan dog
- genes, whatever they are...).
-
- What dog-knowers will tell you that human-aggressiveness and
- dog-aggressiveness are totally different, and that, for example, dogs
- bred to fight in fact had to be owner-safe in the most intense
- situations where an owner needed to break two fighters apart.
-
- Regarding attempts to ban certain breeds as "vicious," it should be
- noted that the fault is not with the dog or the breed of the dog.
- Unfortunately, certain breeds are perceived to be aggressive and
- vicious. People pick up these types of dogs and encourage them to be
- aggressive and vicious. The result is a badly-trained dog that has
- been taught to fear people. In addition, other people start breeding
- these dogs with poor temperament and the cycle continues. But it is
- important to remember that the viciousness comes with poor training
- and teasing of the dog and poor breeding practices. Thus, penalties
- should focus on individuals who display irresponsibility in the
- handling of their dog and on those breeders who breed with poor
- temperament, rather than on an entire breed.
-
- References:
-
- Hearn, Vicki. _Bandit: The Dossier Of A Dangerous Dog_.
-
-
- J. Wolves and Wolf Hybrids.
-
- First, note that there is a group in the ALT hierarchy called
- alt.wolves. There, you can read firsthand experiences of hybrid
- owners, and discuss other issues involving wolves and hybrids in
- general.
-
- 1. Wolves
-
- Wolves are very different from canines, but they do share a common
- ancestry. Wolves can be fascinating to study -- and observation of
- wolves' social structure and behavior shed much insight into canine
- behavior.
-
- Resources and References:
-
- Wolf Park is an organization whose mission is to conduct behavioral
- research to obtain a better understanding of wolves in captivity and
- in the wild, to disseminate scientific information and improve captive
- animal management techniques, and to educate the general public to
- gain a compassionate and realistic understanding of wolves and
- ecology. Wolf Park is supported through memberships and donations.
- Benefits include free admission to the park for one year, Wolf Park
- News and Journal of Wolf Ethology, and discounts on books from the
- bookstore. Behavior seminars directed by Dr. Erich Klinghammer are
- offered. There is an Adopt-A-Wolf program as well. Note that they do
- not deal with wolf-hybrids: many people attempt to donate their WH's
- and they do not accept them. Their position is that wolf-hybrids are
- a bad idea and a detriment to wolves and the Park's mission. They
- will provide information about hybrids to those that ask.
-
- Address: Wolf Park, Battle Ground, IN 47920. Phone: (317) 567-2265.
-
- Mech, L. David. _The Wolf_. University of Minnesota Press, 1970.
- 384 pgs Softcover. ISBN: 0-1866-1026-6.
- Complete description of the wolf, its behavior and ecology.
- David Mech is a renowned wolf expert, and this is an extremly
- informative and well written book.
-
- Lopez, Barry H. _Of Wolves and Men_. Charles Scribner's Sons, 1978.
- 308 pgs Softcover. ISBN: 0-684-16322-5.
- Description of wolves and their relationship with humans. Not
- really a technical discussion of wolves like the first reference.
-
- Crisler, Lois. _Arctic Wild_. New York, Harper. 1958.
-
- Mowat, Farley. _Never Cry Wolf_. Boston, Little, Brown. 1963.
-
- The Wolf Society of Great Britain produces the flyer "The Howler."
- Prospect House
- Charlton
- Kilmersdon. Bath. BA3 5TN
-
-
- 2. Wolf-Hybrids
-
- **********************************************************************
- FAQ author's note: I disclaim *any* responsibility in the event you
- get a wolf-hybrid. It is my personal recommendation that you not get
- one. What follows is for informational purposes only and is presented
- here only because it is a controversial topic that comes up every now
- and then on this group. I have attempted to make a fair presentation,
- and have included resources for further information.
- --Cindy Tittle Moore
- **********************************************************************
-
- Anyone who is interested in getting a wolf-hybrid should obtain as
- much information about the animals *before* considering getting one.
- WH's are not casual pets and do not behave like dogs do. Most WH
- experts recommend that you spend some time around WH's to be sure of
- what you are getting into. Wolf Country and other places offer
- programs where people can help care for WH's and learn first hand
- about them. There are also seminars and organizations to help
- disseminate the information a WH owner needs. **DO NOT EVEN
- *CONSIDER* GETTING A WOLF-HYBRID BEFORE GETTING THIS INFORMATION AND
- EDUCATION!**
-
- What follows below is a thumbnail sketch of the sorts of problems with
- wolf-hybrids, along with resources for more complete information.
-
- Legality: Because of various state and federal laws regarding wildlife
- and endangered species, wolf-hybrids are simply illegal. As of 1991,
- they were illegal in ten states, and an additional nine required Fish
- & Game permits, especially if the hybrid was at least 75% wolf. A lot
- of states don't quite know what to do with hybrids and have thus
- included such terminology in defining hybrids as "wolf-like
- characteristics." Even when legal, they face much prejudice, and a WH
- that runs afoul of the law (by trespassing, biting, etc) is much more
- likely to be destroyed than a dog doing the same.
-
- In addition, such a WH will generate negative publicity for wolves.
- Reinforcing negative images of wolves in the public's mind and giving
- ammunition to the ranching industry to produce more anti-wolf
- propoganda directly hampers the wolf's reintroduction into the wild.
- Unfair as it is, the general public will think "wolf" when
- "wolf-hybrid" comes up, and the ranching industry has long had an
- interest in completely eliminating wolves and will use this prejudice.
-
- Behavior: Although there are exceptions, most WH's do NOT act like
- domesticated dogs, Jack London's romantic stories notwithstanding.
- Dogs are the result of thousands of years of genetic selection for
- those attributes that are desired by man. The wolf, on the other
- hand, has been selected to be a survivor. Most suffer from a fear, or
- at least a nervousness, of being around people and are very timid
- until something happens to go against their instincts. The pack
- instinct is very strong. They will only obey their owner if they feel
- he is the dominant dog in the pack, so obviously, he needs to know A
- LOT about wolfpacks to stay ahead of the game. Also, hybrids don't
- always automatically assume that the "master" will remain the master,
- resulting in testing the owner for dominance, which can take the forms
- of attacking or defensive fighting.
-
- Predicting behavior: The percentage of wolf in the hybrid's background
- will not accurately predict its behavior. Some hybrids with low
- percentages are nervous and skittish, others with high percentages are
- more stable and reliable. Looking at the pup's parents may give some
- indication, but then it may not. A good deal will depend on how well
- socialized the animal is, that is, how much work its owner puts into
- it. Remember, WH's are NOT a breed, there is absolutely no
- consistency in their breeding. Not only does the percentage of wolf
- background vary, but the dogs used in the crosses also vary, although
- they are commonly Malamutes and Huskies. Also, since they are not
- bred for any particular purpose and there are a number of backyard
- breeders of WH's, this contributes to their uncertain temperament.
- Because WH are so much more work than average dogs, and because the
- *potential* is there for the WH to be more prone to what is deemed
- anti-social behavior in domesticated dogs, the problem is amplified.
-
- Around people: WH's, as with any large or excitable animal, should
- NEVER be allowed access to small children, unless they are on a leash
- and strictly watched for signs of aggression. If a child trips and
- falls, or gets knocked down by the big furry "dog", or worse yet,
- teases the "dog", a mauling can easily result. Hybrids need to be
- watched around strangers because they may back bite. Not all WH's
- react this way, but a hybrid owner cannot afford to take any chances.
- Again, because of negative public perception, the hybrid will likely
- be destroyed as a result of such an incident, and its behavior only
- reinforce the negative perception. In addition, it will further
- damage the reputation of wolves, making reintroduction that much
- harder, and damage the reputation of the dogs the wolves are bred to,
- usually Siberian Huskies and Alaskan Malamutes.
-
- Training: Many respondents emphasized that WH's can be trained, but
- NOT TRUSTED without their owners nearby. Most obedience clubs will
- not even allow wolf hybrids in classes. Wolf Country, a breeder near
- Anchorage, strongly recommends potential owners work around the
- animals for at least a year in order to see if they can handle them
- and do want one. Apparently they socialize quite differently from
- dogs, and can differ in their response to discipline. The normal
- methods used on dogs may or may not work on a hybrid. Because of all
- this, you will need WH support groups of some form nearby to help you
- with potential training problems.
-
- Housing: YOU DO NOT (repeat NOT) PUT A HYBRID ON A CHAIN IN THE BACK
- YARD! You need to build an enclosure of at least 10000 square feet to
- allow it to explore. Also it must be fenced with at least 7' high and
- an overhang. Not only that, but it wouldn't be a bad idea to put a
- gate to your back yard to prevent children from wandering out there,
- because if you stick something into its area, it will try to pull it
- through, regardless of whether it is living or just a stick. Some of
- these animals are so strongly destructive that they can not be let in
- the house, and will destroy any house you make for them.
-
- Health: Most medicines for dogs do not work or are unapproved for use
- on hybrids and as a result hybrids may have a harder time getting over
- kennel cough, parvo, distemper, etc. In Indiana, for example, it is
- illegal to vaccinate a wild animal (including hybrids).
-
- In particular, there is NO vaccine that is approved for use on the
- hybrids and that includes rabies. They *can* be vaccinated but if
- they bite someone they are considered by law to be unvaccinated. This
- means if they bite someone, they must be destroyed, with their head
- sent to a laboratory to determine the presence of rabies or not.
-
- Resources:
-
- The Wolf Hybrid Times (WHT) is packed full of information: complete
- with many long series on topics such as nuitrition, containment,
- medical information, current legal status and issues, research, wolves
- in literature, photos and seasoned, practical advice from owners,
- breeders and scientists. Add to this commercial advertising
- specifically geared to wolf and wolf hybrid owners plus regular
- updates and activities from the various organizations. Subscription
- rate is $20.00 per year; please add $4.00 outside the U.S. Published
- bi-monthly. Address is: WHT, P.O. Box 1423, Gallup, NM 87305.
-
- The National Wolf Hybrid Association is dedicated to responsible care
- and understanding of the wolf hybrid. Membership fees are $25.00
- yearly which include a bi-monthly newsletter. Address: Rt. 1 Box 163
- Chapmansboro, TN 37035. Phone: (615) 746-3442.
-
- --------------------------------------------------------------------------
- This article is Copyright (c) 1992, 1993 by Cindy Tittle Moore. It may be
- freely distributed in its entirety provided that this copyright notice
- is not removed. It may not be sold for profit nor incorporated in
- commercial documents without the author's written permission. This
- article is provided "as is" without express or implied warranty.
-
- Cindy Tittle Moore
- Internet: tittle@netcom.com USmail: PO BOX 4188, Irvine CA 92716
- --------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
-